Broiling is a dry heat method of cooking whereby a radiant energy source is located directly above the food.  In other words, the food is underneath the heat.  Many people refer to broiling as “upside-down grilling” but that’s not completely accurate.  To understand why we must discuss the ways heat is transferred to food. 

            Convection is when heat is transmitted via moving currents of liquid or gas.  Thus, when you bake or roast something in your oven, the circulating hot air surrounding the food performs the cooking.  Conduction is when heat is transferred through direct contact from the cooking vessel to the food.  Turn on your frying pan, fill it with bacon, and the heat is conveyed directly from the flame, to the pan, to the bacon.  Boiling is a combination of both.  The food cooks from direct contact with the water, (conduction), and from the circulation of the water, (convection).  Finally food can be cooked by radiant heat, a.k.a., infrared radiation.  Such is the case with broiling.  Here the food is in close proximity to the heat source but not touching it.  Grilling is not pure infrared radiation.  You certainly achieve radiant heat from the nearby coals or gas flame, but you are also cooking via conduction, since the food is actually touching the grates.  Therefore, and I know I’m being a little anal here; broiling is cooking via infrared radiation while grilling is a combination of infrared radiation and conduction.  Whew!  Glad we got that out of the way.

            With the exception of the tiny thermal technicality I just outlined, everything else about grilling and broiling is the same.  Because broiling is a dry heat method, only tender cuts of meat are suitable.  You would never broil a pot roast, lamb shank, or beef brisket.  They would become even tougher. Cuts from the rib and loin of our four-legged friends are best suited for broiling.  Fish, shellfish, vegetables and chicken are also good candidates.  You should also never broil a thick cut of meat, even if it is of the tender variety.  Broiling is very intense heat and fast cooking.  If the piece of food is too thick, the exterior will be burnt to bits by the time the center is cooked.  So ixnay to the on-the-bone chicken breast.  Do boneless breasts instead.  Conversely, if the piece of food is too thin, you’ll obliterate it.  Stay under an inch in thickness but not as thin as a cutlet. 

            Of course, this all depends on the quality of your oven.  I’ve cooked in ovens that had a wimpy broiler.  The food never develops that sear like you obtain on a grill or by sautéing.  If your kitchen is vitiated by such an oven, use an alternative method.  Searing the food creates strong flavor.  A broiler that falls short in the heat intensity department will shortchange your taste buds.

            The basic broiling method is such.  First, make sure your broiler has completely preheated.  Why?  See the previous paragraph.  Next, lightly brush the food with oil.  This will add flavor, help prevent sticking, and facilitate the production of a uniform sear.  Then season the food with salt, pepper, or whatever other spices you plan to use.  If you’re not planning on making a sauce from whatever drippings accrue in the pan, you can cover the broiler pan with aluminum foil for easy cleaning.  Place the food in the pan and then into the broiler.  Keep a close eye on it.  As soon as the first side is browned, flip it.  The second side will not take as long as the first since the food is partially cooked at this stage.  Remove when the second side has browned and chow down. 

BROILED PORK CHOPS WITH HARICOT VERT

Haricot Vert are tender French string beans.  Use regular string beans if your supermarket doesn’t carry them.

4 center cut pork chops

Olive oil as needed

Rosemary, chopped, as needed

Salt and pepper to taste

4 oz. dry white wine

4 oz. veal stock

1 bay leaf

4 cloves garlic, chopped

Gastric, as needed, (see recipe below)

6 oz haricot vert

3 shallots, chopped

            Preheat the broiler.  Brush the chops with oil and sprinkle with rosemary, salt, and pepper.  Do not cover the pan with foil.  Broil until desired doneness.  Remove the chops and cover with foil to rest and stay warm.  Place the broiler pan on top of the stove and turn the heat up to high.  Deglaze the pan with white wine, and then add stock, bay leaf, some rosemary, two cloves of garlic, and reduce for a minute or two.  Add two oz. of the gastric. Continue to reduce and taste, adding more gastric if necessary.  Strain the sauce before serving.  Sauté the haricot vert with the shallots in olive oil until almost tender.  Add the remaining cloves of garlic toward the end and season with salt and pepper.   

GASTRIC:

4 oz sugar

½ cup white wine vinegar

Heat the sugar in a saucepan until it melts and turns a pale brown.  Add vinegar and cook until sugar has completely dissolved and is incorporated into the vinegar. 

Almond Joy

The almond is one of the most popular nuts, not only in modern times but throughout history.  Man has been consuming them since at least 10,000 BC and inevitably before.  Almonds were one of the first fruit trees to be cultivated.  This was done by the Greeks sometime in the third millennia BC.

            Sugared almonds, one of the world’s oldest confections, most likely originated with the Romans but subsequently became very popular in France.  Many French regions and towns are known for their sugared almonds, not the least of which is Verdun.  King Charles IV is reputed to have given sugared almonds to a young girl from Verdun as a Valentines gift.  The Romans distributed sugared almonds during ceremonies and showered newlyweds with them as a sign of fertility.  Sugared almonds were also used as gifts for esteemed men, bishops, and at baptisms.   

            Originally native to western Asia, the almond is the seed of a fruit related to the plum and the peach.  The Spaniards brought them to the New World in the 1700’s.  California is by far the largest US producer.  Naturally, they are still widely grown throughout the Mediterranean as well. 

            There are two types of almonds, sweet and bitter.  Bitter almonds contain trace amounts of a lethal acid and are not allowed to be sold in America.  They are often used as a flavoring agent but must be cooked first to neutralize their toxin.  Most almond related products utilize the sweet variety. 

            Almonds are nutritional powerhouses and contain calcium, folic acid, magnesium, potassium, and vitamins B2 and E.  They have been purported to lower cholesterol, prevent cancer, and assist in weight maintenance.  Like most nuts, they have a good dose of fat, but it is almost entirely polyunsaturated and monosaturated fats, the white-hat wearers of the lipid world. 

            Almonds have a wide range of culinary uses although desserts and sweet preparations tend to be the most common.  Almond oil is used in baking, salads, and vegetable dishes.  French almond oil is the best but more expensive.  American oil is cheaper but lighter.  Almond extract is a mixture of almond oil and ethyl alcohol and is used mostly in baking.  Almond paste is a mixture of ground almonds and sugar.  Marzipan is a sweeter and finer grained version of almond paste.  Both are used in a variety of baked goods and confections.  Macaroons are a famous cookie made from almond paste, sugar and egg whites.  Almonds are also employed in savory dishes such as couscous, rice, stuffings, chicken, and certain fish such as the classic trout almandine.  And of course there’s Amaretto, the delicious almond flavored liqueur. 

MARK’S ALMOND PIE

For the crust:

1 ½ cups flour

1/8 cup sugar

1 ½ sticks cold salted butter

Ice water as needed

For the filling:

6 oz. crushed, chopped or slivered almonds

4 eggs

1 cup sugar

½ cup light corn syrup

¾ teaspoon almond extract

¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ stick of salted butter, softened

1 tablespoon flour

            Add the flour and sugar to a food processor and then add the butter, one chunk at a time, and pulse just enough to incorporate it into the dough.  A coarse meal is the target consistency.  Add the water in tablespoon increments, again just pulsing the processor enough to incorporate it until a dough is formed.  Scoop it out onto a floured board and lightly knead it for about a minute.  Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap and allow it to rest in the fridge for at least an hour.

            Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.  After the dough has rested, roll it out on a floured board to fit a 9-inch pie plate.  Line the plate with the dough.  Mix all of the ingredients for the filling in a bowl until just incorporated.  Pour the filling into the pie and bake for one hour or until the filling sets.  Cover the pie with aluminum foil to prevent the top from over-browning. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS ALMANDINE

2 dozen Brussels sprouts

4 tablespoons champagne vinegar

1 tablespoon dried mustard

¼ cup maple syrup

½ cup almond oil

½ teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg

¾ cup chopped almonds

Salt and pepper to taste

            Trim the root of the sprouts and then cut them in half through their poles.  Remove whatever outer leaves detach unassisted.  Steam them until tender, about 4-5 minutes.  Meanwhile, whisk the remaining ingredients in a bowl.  Toss with the Brussels sprouts as soon as they’re finished cooking and serve.